…We passed a ski station with shopfronts written in Spanish and only then realized we’d crossed over into Spain. There was snow in the air but the breeze was mild. V stopped in a parking lot to reorient ourselves, so I stepped out of the car and took pictures of the border patrol’s Jeep against a white-capped backdrop. They immediately came over and asked that I delete that photo, and why was I travelling without a passport? But they were blue-eyed and good-humoured and let us head off back into France in search of the Lacs d’Ayous.